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Patented May 12, 1891.

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No. 452,316. Patented May 12, 1891.

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No. 452,316. Patented May 12,1891.

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No. 452,316. Patented May 12, 1891.

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J. PATTEN. LASTING MACHINE. No. 452,316. Patented May 12, 1891.

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No. 452,316. Patented May 12,1891.

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LASTING MACHINE.

No. 452,316. Patented May'l Z, 1891.

(N0 Moiil.) 12 Sheets-Sheet 12.

-' J. PATTEN.

LASTING MACHINE.

Patented May 12,1891.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JOHN PATTEN, OF NEXV YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR TO THE UNIVERSAL LASTINGMACHINE COMPANY, OF SAME PLACE.

LASTlNG-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 452,316, dated May 12,1891.

Application filed June 28,1890- Serial No. 357,080. (No model.) 7

T alZ whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, JOHN PATTEN, a citizen of the United States, and aresident of New York, in the county of New York and State of New York,have in vented a certain new and useful Improvement in Lasting-Machines,of which the following is a specification.

I will describe a machine embodying my improvement, and then point outthe novel features in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is avertical section of alasting-machine embodying my improvement, the section being taken asindicated by the dottedline 00 at, Fig. 9. Fig. 2 is a vertical sectiontaken substantially in a plane at right angles to the principal plane ofFig. 1, as indicated by the dotted line y 3 Fig. 9. Fig. 3 is aninverted plan of certain parts toward which the arrowzf in Fig. 2points. Fig. 4 is a vertical section corresponding to Fig. 2; but it ismade on a larger scale and does not show all the parts which areincluded in Fig. 2. Certain parts which it shows and which are alsoillustrated by Fig. 2 are shown in different positions. Fig. 5 is a sideview of the machine, excepting only that certain of the upper parts havebeen omitted. Fig. (3 is a top view of the principal parts of themachine, but cer tain parts of the machine are represented as brokenaway and other parts are entirely omitted in this figure. Fig. 7 is atop view of certain parts which are also represented in Fig. 6, but inFig. 7 these parts are illustrated upon a much larger scale and arerepresented as occupying different positions. Fig. 8 is a top view ofsome of the parts which areillustrated in Fig. 7 and certain other partswhich do not appear in this figure. 'Here the parts which are also shownin Fig. 7 are represented in different positions. Fig. 9 is a horizontalsection taken at the plane of the dotted line .2 2, Fig. 2, lookingdownward. Fig. 10 is an inverted plan of certain rings whose uppersurfaces are illustrated in Fig. 0. Fig. 11 is a perspective view of anarm whereby the rings just mentioned may be rotated. Fig. 12 is. ahorizontal section taken at the plane of the dotted line 1010, Fig. 2,looking downward. Fig. 13 is an end view of a portion of the machine,looking in the direction indicated by the arrow 4:, Fig. 1. Fig. let isa side view, on an enlarged scale, of a device termed a downhold andwhich is employed to hold the last down during'a certain part of theoperation of lasting. This view also represents a portion of a last indotted outline. Fig. 15 is a top view of the downhold and includes arepresentation in dot-ted outline of a last. Fig. 16 is a section takenat the plane of the dotted line a a, Fig. 14, looking in a directionindicated by the arrow marked at the end of the line. Fig. 17 is a viewof certain parts which are used at the heel portion of the downhold.Fig. 18 is a top view of the outer section of a device termed astretcher, whereby the leather forming the upper of the shoe is drawnand stretched over the last. Fig. 19 is a side View of the outer sectionof the stretcher. Fig. 20 is a top view of the inner section of thestretcher. Fig. 21 is a longitudinal section of the inner section of thestretcher. It also includes in dotted outline a representation of thesole portion of a last. Fig. 22 is an enlarged vertical section of theupper extremity of one of a number of pressing and holding fingers. Fig.23 is a perspective view of the outer side of the upper extremity of oneof a number of pressing and holding fingers and a band secured theretoand a tip belonging to another pressing and holding finger and which issecured to the band. Fig. 24 is a side view of a part of the base portion of a machine-frame and of the bed-piece, also of a portion of one of anumber of rings provided with pins which are used in the machine. Thisview also shows a pin connected with the bed-piece to be operated by anyone of the pins which are represented as attached to the ring. Fig. 25is a top view of the ring represented in Fig. 4 and of a number of othersimilar rings. This view also includes a horizontal section of part ofthe base portion of the machine-frame. Fig. 26 is an enlarged top viewof one of a number of crimping-fingers. Fig. 27 is an end view of thiscrimpingfinger. Fig.28 is a sideelevation of a detent which is employedfor bringing the machine to rest, and in this view an arm which coactswith the detent is also represented. Fig. 29 is a face view of one oftwo parts by which motion is transmitted from a drivingpnlley to themachine proper. Fig. 230 is a sectional elevation illustrating amodified construction of a stretcher which is comprised in the machine.Fig. 31 is a vertical section taken at the line (1 q, Fig. 30. Fig. 32is a top view of an outer section of the stretcher. Fig. is a verticalsection taken as indicated by the line 1' r, Fig. 31, looking in thedirection indicated by the arrow which is marked at one end of the line.Fig. 3% is a vertical section taken at the plane of the dotted line s s,Fig.

Similar letters of reference designate corresponding parts in all thefigures.

Preliminarily to a detailed description of this machine, I will explainits salient features, thinking thereby to conduce to a readyunderstanding of the new improvements.

A designates a last.

B designates a jack or holder for the last. It will be seen that thelast occupies an inverted position in the machine.

D D designate two downholds. These downholds are alike, excepting onlythat one is intended for use with a left last and the other with a rightlast. Of course only one is used with any last. hen either is used, itis brought into a position above the last to hold the last against anyupward movement at a certain stage in the operation of "lasting. Eachdownhold comprises a number of resilient fingers which are normallyseparated at some little distance from each other, but which may becrowded together and bent-inward.

O C designate a stretcher. Two such de' vices will be used and they willdiffer merely in that one will be adapted for a left and the other for aright last. The function of this device is to draw and stretch theleather forming the upper tightly around the last.

E designates a number of pressing and holding fingers, which aredesigned to hold the upper firmly against the last after the upper shallhave been drawn and strained around the last.

E designates a holding-band, which is intermediate of the pressing andholding fingers and the last and which ispresscd against the upper bythese fingers.

F designates crimping-fingers, which move inward to force the edge ofthe upper over the sole portion of the last.

I will now explain the operation of the parts which I have justdescribed. The last A, after having an upper arranged upon it, is placedon the holder or jack B. The upper is then stretched forward and whileit is held central the lever-cam Z) is operated so as to force the clamp(J upward. Thus the holder or jack, which is U-shaped, springs andclamps the upper between the clamp b and the last, holding it central.After this is done the inner section C of the stretcher is placed on thelast, so that its depending portion or envelope will extend between thelast and the upper-leather. The outer section of the stretcher havingbeen previously placed on its supports in its proper place in themachine, the jack, last, upper, and stretching section 0 are loweredthrough it into the machine while properly connected. The insole is thendropped through the inner stretcher C. It will be understood that afterthe two sections of the stretcher shall have been placed in position theedge of the upper will extend between them. The downholdnowis lowered.It forces the lastdown to its proper position and serves to hold theinsole firmly upon the last. In this waythe last will be forced down toits proper position and the insole will he held fast upon it. Next thepressing and holding fingers are set in motion. In the initial movementthey are elevated or lowered, it this be necessary, to bring them intoproper vertical position to enable them to operate upon the particularlast which is in the machine, and afterward they are oscillated in suchmanner as that their upper end portions and the band E will be forcedinward to tightly and firmly hold the upper and stretcher-sectionstogether and the inner stretcher-section against the last.

The succeeding step in the operation eonsists in the elevation of thetwo sections of the stretchers. As the edge portion of the upper is atthe time tightly gripped and held between the two sections of thestretcher it will be drawn upwardly and stretched tightly around thelast. Now the crin'iping-fingers operate. First they move longitudinallyuntil they reach the edge portion of the upper and press it against thefingers of the downhold. Then they are oscillated so as to lower theirinner ends properly to enable them to press the edge of the upperportion tightly around the edge portion of the insole, which is laidupon the last. 'lhisinward movement of the crimpers is continued andresultsin pressing the fingers of the downhold together and crowding orcrimping the edge portion of the upper tightly over the insole which isupon the last. It must be understood that the upper is held all thistime by the pressing and holding fingers E and holding-band E Thedownhold is raised and moved out of the way. It leaves the crimpersholding the edge portion of the upper down upon the insole which waslaid upon the last. The edge portion of the upper is then tacked to theinsole in any suitable manner, preferably with a tacking-tool. The tacksare clinched underneath the insole by coming in contact with a metalfacing-plate arranged upon the sole portion of the last. I have notdeemed it necessary to represent this metal facing-plate, because it iscustomary to provide lasts with such a plate. The operation of lastinghaving thus been completed, the crimpers F and the pressing and holdingfingers E, together with the band E are moved away from the last,whereupon the latter, with the jack or holder B,may be removed from themachine.

Having now, as I think, prepared the mind to readily understand thedetails of the machine, I will proceed with a description of them. Thejack or holder B is substantially of U form, having a body I) and twosubstantially parallel arms Z) o The arm I) is inserted in the metalsocket a with which the heel portion of the last is provided, and thearm 19 bears against the portion of the upper which fits around the toeportion of the last. The arm b is telescoped at the end 72 which isfaced with leather to bear against the upper, and which may be forcedlengthwise of the main section of the arm I) by means of a lever b forthe purpose of canting the last, so that. it will be firmly held uponthe arm I). The last is of course fitted to the jack or holder afterbeing fitted with the upper. When the last and the jack or holder B areintroduced into the machine, the body portion 1) of the jack or holderrests in seats 19 which are formed on or attached to the upperextremities of vertically-sliding rods B. These seats preferably haveflaring sides, as may be understood from reference to Fig.2, tofacilitate the fitting of the jack orholderinto them. The rods B passthrough vertical holes in a hub-like portion p, with which the bed-pieceP is provided. Springs B surround the rods B between the bottoms oftheir seats 5 and the top of the bed-piece P. They sustain the rods inthe position which they are to normally occupy, but allow them to yieldvertically to afford provision for adjusting the last into the propervertical position.

Around the hub-like portion 19 of the bedpiece is an annular cavity 19'.Beneath this cavity is a plate 19 which may be seen best in Figs. 2 and3. It is' formed integral with the bed-piece, and has in one facesemicircular cavities which communicate with the holes of the hub-likeportion 29, through which the rods B pass. Opposite this plate 11 is aplate 19 which has similar semicircular cavities and which is capable ofmovement toward and from the plate 19 to enable it in conjunction withthe latter to clamp or release the rods B.

At the time of the insertion of the last with the jack orholderB therods B are unclamped and are supported solely by the springs B After theadjustment of the last to the proper position the rods will, as a partof the operation of the machine, be clamped tightly in place to hold thelast in such position. I will now explain how this clampingis done. Theplate p is provided with a female screwthread. As here shown, this isdone by attaching a nut 19 to the plate. This nut, it will be seen uponreference to Figs. 2 and 3, is arranged at one side of the plate andprovided with a collar or neck which enters a cavity formed in the outerside of the plate, and a set-screwp is employed to secure the collar orneck of the nut in the plate and so that it will be incapable ofrotation. A rock-sh aft 19 passes through the plates 10 p and alsothrough the nut 19 This shaft is supported solely by the plate 19 It isscrew-threaded and engaged with the nut 19. At the end which protrudesfrom the plate p the shaft 10 hasa projection or head which bears on theouter side of this plate and precludes the shaft from any longitudinalmovement toward the plate 17*. Obviously a movement of the screw in onedirection will cause it to draw the plate 19 toward the plate p andforcibly clamp the rods B between these plates. It will be readilyunderstood that a reverse rotary movement of the shaft p will by itscoaction with the nut 13 move the plate 19 away from the plate 29 so asto release the rods B. The shaft 17 is oscillated by means of a cam Baffixed to a shaft S, which is journaled in the base portion P of themachine. This cam B rotates within a frame 13*, which is rigidly affixedto the head of the shaft 13 and has arc-shaped portions 1) b againstwhich operates a peripheral segment of the cam made concentric with theshaft S. Vhile this peripheral segment of the cam is traveling alongeither of the arc-shaped portions Z) b of the frame B it maintains thelever in position. It imparts motion to the lever only while passingfrom one of the arc-shaped portions of the frame to the other. The frameB as here shown, is made of two bent rods, which at one end bear againsteach other and fit between jaws or checks 19 which are formed integralwith or rigidly secured to the head of the rock-shaft. Set-screwspassing through these jaws or checks and impinging against the portionsof the rods which are embraced by them fasten the latter securely inplace. At the other ends these shafts are united by a cross-piece.

I will now further describe the stretcher O 0 Its construction may bebest understood by reference to Figs. 18, 19, 20, and 21. The outersection C consists of a metal plate 0 and a depending flexible envelope0 The plate 0 conforms in general shape to the outline of the soleportion of a last. It may have the peculiarities of a right or leftlast, as two stretchers will preferably be used. It is longer than anylast used in the machine and is open at the portion which corresponds tothe heel of the last.

The envelope preferably consists of a strip of stout leather fastened atthe upper edge to the plate and extending downwardly there from. Likethe plate, this strip is open at the end corresponding to the heelportion of a last. A convenient way of attaching the envelope to theplate 0 is to bend its edge outwardly against the under side of theplate and to place a smaller plate 0 beneath the outwardly-turnedportion of the envelope and to force it by screws or otherwise towardthe main plate 0 for the purpose of clamping the interposed port-ion ofthe envelope to the plate 0 Standards 0, fastened to the bedpiece, serveto support the outer stretchersection. As here shown, the upperextremities of these standards are enlarged and notched on the innerside to form seats for the outer edge portion of the plate 0. Thesection 0, which is best illustrated in Figs. 20 and 21, comprises aplate 0, which is constructed of asize and shape to lap over the plate 0of the outersection C of the stretcher. The outer section of thestretcher is in this way enabled to engage with the inner section. Itwill be seen that the plate 0 is continuous, or, in other words,endless, instead of being open at the heel portion. It has neither thepeculiarities of a right or left last, but is constructed so that it mayoperate in conjunction with a last of either kind. From the plate 0 ofthe inner stretcher-section an envelope c extends. This preferablyconsists of a num ber of leaves of sheet metal fastened at the upperextremity to the plate 0. These leaves lap over each other and form acontinuous envelope which fits between the edge portion of the upper andthe last. This inner stretcherwection is provided with legs 0", whichwill prevent its descending too low upon the last. These are shown asconsisting of metal strips which are fastened to the plate 0' and extenddownwardly at such points that they may rest upon the last. Preferablythe inner stretcher-section will be placed upon the last before theintroduction of the last with its jack or holder into the machine, andall these parts will be passed through the opening in the plate of theouter stretchersection in introducing them into the machine. The innerstretcher-section may be supported by the contact of its legs 0 with theinsole on the sole portion of the last.

I have already explained that the stretchersections are drawn upward ata certain stage in the ope 'ation of the machine. The means forelevating them consist of rods C G, titted to slide vertically in bentarms or goose-necks. There are two of these arms or goose-necks, becausethere are two downholds. They are marked G Each has rods 0 combined withit. As both these arms or goose-necks and their appurtenances are alike,it will be sufficient to describe but one. The base of each goose-neckis fitted to a plate P which is shown as arranged in the same plane withthe top portion of the bed-piece, and may be regarded as in effect aportion of the bed piece. The goose-neck is so connected with this plateas to be free to rotate. As here shown, the connection is made byproviding the base portion of the goose-neck with a circumferentialgroove and fastening to the plate P a plate P having at the upper edgean inwardly-extended circular ii an ge which enters a groove of thegoose-neck. As here shown, the goose-neck is provided with a groove bymaking it in two sections arranged one below the other and fastenedtogether by screws 9. The lower section has asleeve 9, which extendsdown below the plate P The purpose of this sleeve will be explainedhereinafter. The plate P is shown as formed integral with a frame 11which is supported by the base portion of the machine-frame. The red Cis provided atthe lower extremity with a cross-plate c and the red C isprovided at its lower end with a button 0. Normally these rods occupysuch relation to the goose-neek that when this goose-neck is swungaround to a position overthe stretcher U C the cross-plate c of the redC will swing under lugs c", with which the plate 0 of theouterstretcher-section is provided, aml the button c of the rod- (2"will swing into engagement with a hook c which extends from the toeportion of the said plate 0 After this the rods 0 C are elevated, and asthey ascend they draw up the stretcher, and thereby effect the drawingand stretching of the upper around the last.

The means here shown for elevating the rods C 0' consist of a yoke II,to which they are fastened at the upper ends and which in turn issecured to a vertiCally-movable rod ii, that slides vertically throughthe gooseneck 7:. On this red II a toothed rack is provided, and withthis rack a toothed segment-lever 11 engages. This segment-lever isfulcrumed between its ends by a pin 7t to the goose-neck. The outer endof the lever is pivotally connected to a rod II, that extends downwardlythrough the goose-neck and at the lower extremity is pivotally connectedwith one arm of a lever 11. The lever II; is fulerumed at one end by apin it to the base portion of the machine-frame. Intermediately of itsends it is acted upon by a cam ll, that is affixed to the shaft II. Ihave shown the lever as provided with an anti-friction bowl or wheel 71.at the point where it derives motion from the cam. The cam ll, it willbe seen, has two short concentric portions with intermediate eccentriccurved portions. A spring ll" is employed to swing the lever upwardly.The particular form of spring represented is a grasshopperspring. It isfastened at one end to the base portion of the machine-frame, while atthe other end it bears against the free end of the lever II". \Vhilethat one of the two concentric portions which is described with thelonger radius is operating upon the lever the lever will be maintainedin its lowest position and the rods C G will be elevated, and while theconcentric portion, which is described with the shorter radius, isoperating upon the lever the lever will be maintained in its highestposition, as represented in Fig. 1. Then the rods C C" will bemaintained in a position which will render them capable of engaging withthe plate a of the outer stretcher-section C The shifting of the leverfrom one position to the other will be accomplished during the time thatthe eccentric surfaces of the cam are acting upon the lever. It will beobvious from this explanation that the lever dwells for a considerabletime in each of its positions during the operation of the machine.

In Figs. 30, 31, 32, 33, and 34 I have shown that the plate a of theinner section 0 of the stretcher normally rests upon the plate 0 of theouter section 0 only opposite the toe portion of the last, and that theopposite end portion of said plate 0 is supported by the legs 0 in suchposition that it is elevated above the plate 0 of the outer section. Itis obvious that owing to this the plate 0 of the outer section will atthe beginning of each upward movement raise the toe portion of the plate0 of the inner section of the stretcher, but will not raise theremainder of the plate c until after the said plate 0 is raised somedistance. The first pull of the envelope 0 of the inner section willtherefore be at-the toe portion of the last. The importance of this Iwill explain presently. I have shown that the heel-plate of the envelope0 may be slitted vertically at the lower portion, if desired. I haveshown in Figs. 30, 31, 32, 33, and 34 that the envelope 0 of the outersection of the stretcher may be puckered, except at the toe portion.Springs 0 which may consist of bands of rubber connected to the plate 0at one end and at the other end to a wire 0 which is fastened bystitching or otherwise to the envelope in a line parallel with the edgeof said plate, may serve as a means for puckering the envelope. Outsidethe springs a plate 0 is extended to cause that portion of the envelopethat is below the puckered portion to be vertical. This puckering isgradual, beginning at a point near the toe portion and graduallyincreasing from there to the heel portion, and may be limited by stops cOwingto this puckering, the initial movement of the outer section of thestretcher will cause the drawing of the upper over the toe portion ofthe last, but will not draw the remainder of the upper around the lastuntil after the initial movement, because until the puckered portion ofthe envelope is straightened out that portion of the envelope can haveno effect in drawing the upper around the last.

It is considered by manufacturers of shoes to be very advantageous todraw the upper over the toe of the last to a greater extent than at anyother portion, and this is secured by the peculiar action which thestretcher, when modified as illustrated in Figs. 30, 31, 32, 33, and 34,will have, by reason of the fact that it will pull throughout itsmovement upon the toe portion of the upper and only throughout a portionof its movement upon the remainder of the upper.

I will now fully explain the downholds D D As each differs from theother merelyin being for a different kind of lastas, for example, for aleft last instead of a right last it will be necessary to describe butone. Its construction is best illustrated by Figs. 1, 2, 4, 14, 15, 16,and 17. It consists of a number of fingers (6 (Z 61 which are secured toa holder or body-piece cl. The fingers d d are considerably thicker atthe upper and lower extremity than throughout the middle portion, as maybe readily understood by reference to Figs. 1 and 2. The extra thicknessis at the inner side. Hence these fingers have inward projections at theends. Intermediately of these inward projections the fingers areresilient and normally have a tendency to remain substantially straight.In the under side of the body-piece d of the downhold is acavity (Z Thiscavity is well illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2. Its shape may also beunderstood from Fig. 15, where it is shown in dotted outline. It will beseen from this figure that, like the body-piece, it is of rectangularform, except at one end, where it is rounded. The upper ends of thefingers d d extend upward into the cavity 61 and also into holes d,which extend from the cavity d through the top of the body-piece (I.These holes, it will be seen, are considerably larger than the upperends of the fingers d (1 so that these ends of the fingers may have aslight movement therein in the direction of the length of the body-pieceand also in a direction at right angles to the length of the body-piece.The fingers d, it will be seen, are arranged in pairs, so that oppositeeach of these fingerpieces, which are at one side of the downhold, therewill be another on the other side of the downhold. Between the severalpairs of the fingers (1 plates (1 are interposed in the bodypiece (Z.There is one of these plates between each pair of the fingers d and thenext adjacent pair. These plates are of such thickness as to maintainthe fingers at the desired distances apart and to maintain the fingersout of contact with the sides of the holes (1.

It will be seen by reference to Fig. 16 that the body-piece is providedwith inwardlyturned lips d at the bottom of the cavity d. The plates (1are made T-shaped, or, in other words, are somewhat shorter at theextreme lower edge than above the same. By reason of this they areenabled to fit snugly to the side walls of the cavity (1" of thebody-piece. At the unrounded end of the body -piece notches (Z are cutthrough the lip (Z so as to enable the plates to be inserted.

The fingers d occupy radial positions in the rounded end of the cavity das may be readily understood by reference to Fig. 15. Between the upperend of each of these fingers and the next is atriangular spacing andclamping piece (Z and between the upper ends of the adjacent fingers (Z'(Z are fitted spacing and clamping pieces cl", which have flat sidesthat bear against the adjacent fingers d, inclined sides which fitagainst the adjacent fingers (Rand arc-shaped outersurfaces which bearagainst the rounded portion of the cavity (I in the body-piece.

The body-piece is provided with means for clamping the fingers d (Z inplace. As here shown, these means consist of screws 61 IIO which engagewith tapped holes in theun- I rounded end of the body-piece and impingeagainstthat one of the plates d which is the nearer to its endof thebody-piece. By turn ing these screws they may be made to force all thefingers d and the plates d together, and also to force the foremostfingers (1 into tight contact with the clamping-piecesd, and, moreover,to force all the fingers d and their clamping-pieces (Z tightlytogether.

The fingers (Z' (l are to be set differently for use in conjunction withlasts of different dimensions; but as two downholds are provided it isnot intended that either downhold shall have its fingers adjusted toadapt it for a left instead of a right last. It will be readily seenthat if the clamping-screws(l are turned so as to relax the pressureupon the fingers and their clamping-plates these fingers may be raisedor lowered in the bodypiece and may be rocked inward or outward to adaptthem foroperation with any particular last of the kind for which thedownhold in which they are incorporated is intended, and that after suchadjustment they may be securely clamped in position by properly turningthe clamping-screws. The longitudinal adjustment of the fingers may beautomatic if the last is placed under them and the screws (Z are turnedto loosen the fingers sufficiently to permit of their movement bygravity.

The fingers (1* preferably have formed in them slits (1, which extendfrom their lower extremities upward. The advantage of this constructionis that the lower ends of these fingers may contract laterally, andhence be capable of being moved inward even after the sides of theseveral fingers contact with each other. The lower ends of thesefingers, as well as the lower ends of the fingers d, it will beremembered, are moved inward by the inward movementof the crimpers F inthe operation of turning or crimping the edge portion of the upper overthe insole which is placed upon the last. In Fig. i this inward movementof the fingers is illustrated.

The lingers d are shown as made integral with a body-plate (1 which iscommon to all. These fingers, it will be seen, are intended toco-operate with the heel portion of an insole and last. This plate d isshown as fastened by screws (1 to a block (Z From this block extendsupwardly a plate (7., which is provided with two horizontal slots (i Theplate (Z fits between two checks or jaws d, which extend downwardly froma plate (1 which is of such dimensions that it may be inserted into thecavity (l ot the body-piece d of the downhold. Screws d pass through oneof the checks or jaws through the slots (Z of the plate (1 and engagewith tapped holes in the other check or jaw, so as to be able to securethe plate (1 in place. The plate (Z will be made of such size that itcan pass upward between the lips (1 Hence itis capable of a verticalmovement within the cavity (l and in this respect is unlike the fingersd. The plate (1 is fitted between some of the plates (1, which are inrear of the fingers d, and hence it may be clamped and loosened by theaction of the screws (Z When loosened, it may be raised or lowered tosuit a last for which the downhold 18 to be adjusted. The horizontalslots (1 of theplate d afford provision for moving the fingers (.Z

bodily toward or away from the fingers (1 without moving the plate (1 inthe same direction. Fingers d may be removed or added when the fingers(Fare moved in the direction of the length of the body-piece. Hence thedownhold may be elongated or shortened. An y number of the plates (1maybe arranged in rear of the plate (1 to enable the screws (Z tofulfill their function. The fingers (Z may be slitted at their lowerextremities in the same manner as the fingers (Z \Vithin this series offingers a post or pin (1 may be arranged.

The body-piece of each downhold has a shank (I connected to it. As hereshown, this shank is connected to the body'piece in such manner as thatthere may be a relative movement between it and the body-piccc in thedirection of the length of the latter. On the top of the body-piece is aplate (Z which extends lengthwise of the latter and has side flanges atits upper portion. The shank (Z is provided with a plate-like portion(1, which is trough-shaped 011 the under side to enable it to embracethe plate (Z and at the lower extremities its platelike portion has lipsor flanges which fit under the flanges of the plate (Z In this way asort of dovetailed connection is provided between the plate Z and theplate-like portion (W of the shank (/3 A set-screw cl, engaging with atapped hole in the plate-like portion (1 0f the shank and impinging uponthe top of the plate (1 0f the body-piece, serves to secure thebody-piece and shank in their proper relative positions afteradjustment.

The shank of each body-piece fits in a tube D and the tube D is free toslide vertically within one goose-neck or arm G or G As shown this tubeD surrounds the rod ll of the goose-neck or arm to which it belongs, andis longitudinally slotted to enable the corresponding lever IP to passthrough itand engage with the said rod ll. The shank of the body-piceemay be fastened in this tube D by means of a crosspin d or otherwise.The tube D" has affixed to its lowercndacollar (1 which has flanges atthe upper and lower edges, and hence a circumferential groove. The upperflange is shown as removable, and is secured in place by a screwthreadto the body of the collar. A ring (I fits in the groove of the collar (2and is provided with trunnions d, with which are pivotally connectedlinks (L These links (Z are also pivotally connected with bellcranklevers (2 which are arranged one on each side of the goose-neck or armand fulcrumed to a pin d which is supported by the latter. One of thelevers (1 is extended a considerable distance and provided with a handle(Z for oscillating it. As the operator manipulates this handle (1 toraise and lower Lil the downhold, the lever which is provided with thishandle (F is adjusted into contact with a stop c1 W'hen the handle isnot intended to be used and when said lever is adusted into thisposition, it and its fellow, as well as the links (Z will bear suchrelation to the fulcrum 61 as that the downhold will be maintained in anelevated position.

To lower the downhold the handle (Z of the lever is pushed upward. Thedownward motion of the downhold resulting from this movement of thehandle is intended to be such that the downhold will adjust the soleportion of the last into a predetermined position regardless of the sizeof the last, so that the last, whatever its size, shall always occupythe proper relation to the pressing and holding fingers, and also to thecrimpingfingers. By supporting the jack or lastholder B through thesprings B provision is afforded for a downward movement of the lastunder a force imparted to it by the downhold. It will of course beunderstood that this downward movement occurs before the rods B areclamped in position.

When the last used in the machine is a left last, that one of thegoose-necks or arms which is provided with a left downhold will be swunginto position to enable this downhold to be operated, and when a reverselast is used this goose-neck or arm will'be swung out of position andthe other will be swung into position, so that its downhold can be used.The swinging movement of the goose-necks or arms is restricted by meansof stops g It is only necessary that each should swing abonta quarter ofa rotation. The stops consist of pins rising from the plate P The baseportions of the goose-necks are provided with radially-extending pins 19which will come into contact with the pins g The pressing and holdingfingers E will now be described in detail. These fingers severallyconsist of strips of metal bent to form what may be termed uprightportions 6 and horizontal portions 6 It is desirable that the uprightportions 6 should have resilience, and in order to give the uprightportions that length which is requisite to provide the desired degree ofresilience the strips forming these fingers are bent downwardly at theinner end, as at e of the horizontal portions e and thence upwardly toform the upright portions 0'. The downwardly-bent portions of the stripsand the lower part of their upright portions 6 extend intothe annularcavityp. Each finger E is fulcru med at the junction of its horizontalportion 6 and downwardly-extending portion 6 in a support 6 The supporta consists of two plates arranged side by side at a sufficient distanceapart to accommodate a finger E; but they are united by being riveted toa block 6", which may be seen best in Fig. 1, and to alever a whichcarries said support. The fulcrum of the finger-piece is formed by thebearing which the block a affords to the angle formed by the junction ofthe horizontal portion 0 and the downwardly extending portion 6" of thefinger-piece. The face of the block 0 is angular; but of course it is amore acute angle than that of the adjacent portion of the finger, so asto allow of the rocking of the finger upon it, and its thickness isreduced in such direction that the fin ger-tip may move toward or awayfrom a last in the machine. Each of the levers e. which carry thefinger-supports e is fulcrumed between its ends by a pin 6 in a stand awhich is affixed to the bed-piece 1 of the machine adjacent to thecavityp' thereof. Each lever a may be oscillated to raise or lower thecorresponding tinger E into the proper position to operate upon a lastin the machine. The oscillation of the finger-piece upon the fulcrum inits support 6 serves to move the tip of the finger toward or away fromthe last. The plates comprised in each support e serve to guide theupright portion of the corresponding finger and to sustain it againstdeflection in a plane transverse to the sides of the plates.

It will be seen, especially in Figs. 22 and 23, that the fingers E havetips e, which are fastened to their upright portions 6'. A convenientway of attaching these tips is to provide them at one end withscrew-threaded sockets and to form screw-threads upon the extremities ofthe upright portions e for e11- gaging with the sockets. The upperextremities of the fingers are inclined slightly inward, and the tips e,of course, have the same inclination. It is advantageous to form a notchor jog in the upper portion of that side of the finger-pieces which istoward the last.

The band E is attached to the inner sides of the finger-tips, and whenthe finger-tips move inward is pressed against the upper upon the last.It is made preferably of a woven fabric having strips of rubberincorporated into it to render it elastic. Its function is to preventthe finger-tips from marring the upper. A convenient way of attachingthe band to the finger-tips is to provide the latter with facing-pieces6 0f sheet metal extending over the sides which are toward the last andbent across the upper and lower extremities and a slight distance overthe back, and to form in these facingpieces holes through which the bandmay be stitched to fasten it to the facing-pieces.

The levers e are oscillated by means of vertically-sliding pins e andthe levers forming the pressing and holding fingers E are oscillated byvertically-sliding pins 6 These pins 6 o are not all of the same length.The different pins 6 varyin length at different parts of the machine,and this is equally true of the pins e. They work in tubes e, which areerected upon the bed-piece P. I11 the pins are longitudinal grooves, andinto these grooves project pins or set-screws c Fig. 4, which areinserted transversely in the tubes. These pins or screws 6 prevent thepins c e from dropping out of the tubes but a'tford facility forremoving the pins and inserting others of different lengths, as may berequired for different lasts. The upper ends of the tubes are notched orbifurcated and the ends of the levers c and the lovers forming thepressing and holding fingers E fit in the notched or bifurcated portionsof the tubes. When the pins e" are moved upward, the levers c areoscillated, so as to lower the prcssingand holding fingers to the extentnecessary to adjust the tips of the latter to the desired positions. Assoon as the pins c descend or become free to descend springs c coscillate the lovers c in the reverse direction, and thereby raisethepressingandholding fingers. These springs c are, as represented,helical in form, and are connected at one end with the upright portions0' of the pressing and holding fingers and at the other end to a rail ewhich is supported by standards or posts c erected on the bed-piece P.The rail 0 extends entirelyaround the series of pressingandholdinglingers. The springs c are connected at one end to the standards6 and at the other end to the pressing and holdingfinger supports c. Anupward movement of the pins at will oscillate the levers forming thepressing and holding fingcs E in such direction as that their tips andthe band E will move toward the last. As soon as the pins 6 descend orbecome free to descend the springs c will oscillate these levers in thereverse direction and move their tips and the band E away from the last.

I will now describe the means whereby the pins c c are operated. E Edesignate two rings carrying series of pins 0 e These rings may perhapsbe best understood by ref erence to Figs. 1,2, 5, and 9. They surroundthe base portion of the machine-frame. The inner ring E is held in placeby the base portion of the machine-frame. The ring E fits around thering E and held in place by it. The ring E is raised periodically bycams E' affixed to the shaft 5. It will descend by gravity when this camrecedes from it. The ring E maybe raised and allowed to descend in thesame manner by means of cams E, which are atiixed to the shaft S. \Vhenthe ring Eis raised, its pins 0 will raise the pins e" and the lovers 0will be oscillated by the latter, so as to lower the levers forming thepressing and holding fingers E. ()n a dcscent of this ring the levers cwill be oscillated by the springs c in the reverse direction. hen thering E risesflts pins 2 will raise the pins c and oscillate the leversform' ing the pressing and holding fingers, so that the tips of thelatter and the band E will be moved toward the last. The descent of thering E will permit the spring c to reversely oscillate these lovers. Thepins c" c are not the same length all round the rings E E, but vary inlength because the motions which it is necessary to impart to the leverscf and to the levers forming the pressing and holding fingers aredifferent to enable these levers to operate at different portions of thelast. It will be seen by reference to Figs. 1, 2, and :3 that. the ringE" is composed of two sections c c The section c has at the upper edgean outwardly-extending flange, and below this flange has a screw-threadformed on its exterior surface. The section c has at the lower edge aninwardly extending flange, and above this flange hasa screw-threadformed on its inner surface to engage with the scrcw-thread of thesection c Obviously a rotary movement of the section 0 in one directionwill produce an elevation of the section a, and a reverse rotationthereof will effect the lowering of the section c ()wing totheconstruction of the ring E of two sections provision is afforded forvarying the vertical dimensions of the ring. The ring E is constructed,precisely like the ring E, of two sections 6 c. The rotary adjustment ofthe section 0 will raise or lower the section a to vary the verticalextension of this ring. The flange of the section 0" of the ring E bearsagainst the inner surface of the section a of the ring E and is lockedto the latter section so that it can have no rotary movementindependently thereof. The locking is effected by introducing a key 0into notches in the said sections e a of the rings E E. Outside the ringE is a ring F, and outside of the ring i is a ring F The ring F iscomposed of two sections ff corresponding with the sections of the ringsE E", already described, and the ring F is composed of two sectionsf f"of the same character. The section c of the ring E is locked to thesectionf 0f the ring F by a key 1", inserted in notches provided in saidsections, and the sectionf of the ring i is locked to the section f" ofthe ring F by means of a key 1', inserted in notches formed in thesesections. In brief, the section a of the ring E", the section e of thering E the section f of the ring F, and the section f of the ring areall looked together so as to be incapable of independent rotation. Thekeys c f f are, however, of such length vertically that any one of thesections interlocked thereby may be raised or lowered without beingunlocked from the other sections to which the keys are fitted. Each ofthese keys should be secured by a rivet or otherwise to one of thesections with which it interlocks and be left free to slide only in theother of the sections with which it interlocks. The sectionf of theoutermost ring F has atfixed to it toes I 1 These toes co-opcrate witharms or projections g", whichare atlixed to or formed with the slits g,with which the base portions of the goose-necks or arms G are provided,and the coaction is such that when either goose-neck or arm is movedinto position for use its arm or projection y will come into contactwith one of the toes I I and through it impart a slight oscillatingmovement to the sections c of the ringE c of the ICC IIC

